Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Pineau what? An Offbeat French Grape Variety

Published on Bonjour Paris: http://www.bonjourparis.com/story/pineau-what-offbeat-french-grape-variety/


Ink, Tar, Pine Trees, Black or White Pepper...

Aromas and flavors of ink, tar and pine trees? Ever tasted a wine described like that before? Probably not. The grape variety Pineau d'Aunis (also called Chenin Noir) is little known these days and not much of it makes its way out of the Loire Valley in France. It used to be a quite common variety there and has practically fallen off the charts with only a handful of winemakers now taking it very seriously as it's been replaced by more commercially viable varieties.

The ones who do hold onto it, do it very very well. Christian Chaussard and Thierry Puzelat, considered mavericks by many, are two winemakers who know what is possible with this wild and crazy grape variety and both work in the method of biodynamie. Most of the time this grape is blended with other more common Loire varieties like Cabernet Franc and/or Arbois (menu pineau) with outstanding results evidenced in the rosé Coteaux du Vendômois and in Thierry Puzelat's Touraine Pineau d'Aunis and sometimes (when you can get it) rosé.

The Puzelat Touraine Pineau d'Aunis is a light to medium bodied wine with aromas of white pepper and a lovely bright cherry fruit and a lively acidity. Truly perfect with a slight chill on this one and it becomes a perfect hot weather red. Gorgeous and exciting in the glass. The wine is truly alive. Great with Mediterranean foods and lighter fare.

Another incredible example of this crazy grape is Christian Chaussard's Patapon. This one truly embodies all the wildness that is Pineau d'Aunis. Ink, tar, pine trees, white pepper. It is gorgeous and crazy at the same time, hence the crazy clown on the label.

This wine has a medium body and is normally slightly more extracted than some other pineau d'aunis out there. It is quite complex and offers a wonderful pairing opportunity with venison, wild boar, lamb and other game. Also good with a slight chill on it, making it a fantastic warm weather option in a red wine.

Both of these wines are Louis/Dressner Selections and can be found in many major cities throughout the USA and also online if they aren't currently in your local marketplace.

Learn more about these wines and winemakers at www.louisdressner.com



Another wonderful, yet under-appreciated grape is Négrette. Most commonly found in the South of France, the Fiefs Vendéens a tiny area in the Loire Valley also permits the use of this grape variety along with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc among others. In the Vendée it is also called pinot ragoutant. The characteristic aromas of Négrette evoke cassis (black currants) and licorice. A very nice example of the use of Négrette is in the wines of J. Mourat Collection. They have a red and a rosé that both incorporate Négrette, usually in equal portions with Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.

The J. Mourat Collection Red is a gorgeous deep red-violet with medium body and a lush mouthfeel. Aromas of herbs, licorice, and deep purple, ripe berries on the nose along with spice/black pepper. The flavors are just in line with the aromas. The finish is long and complex with lingering hints of cassis and spice. This wine is quite quaffable on its own but is lovely with medium-savory foods, especially lamb.

The rosé is a gorgeous very pale pink with quite subtle nose. The aromas and flavors are subtle and complex. Bright fruit, great acidity, lovely minerality. The distinctive J. Mourat bottle, based on an ancient bottle they dug up on the property, is quite striking. Even the owl on the label is significant to the Vendée. Story has it that during the revolution, the Vendée supported the royals and they would make a friendly call to each other in the fields to alert each other that they were friends. They used the call of an owl.

This site is in French only but has great info on the J. Mourat Wines.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

More on Closures: A Response

So, my friend has been following along, and while she/he does wish to remain a private citizen, he/she also wishes to clear up a few items and to expound a bit.

I hope that everyone will please play nice. I don't have much time or patience for snarky comments just so you know. Feel free to disagree all day long, prove your point ad infinitum, even ad nauseum, but keep it professional and civil please or I will edit your post or just won't post it at all. We are all, grownups I hope.

Now, mama's off her high horse...




Let's get right down to it, shall we?

In his/her words:

______________________________

Answering some of the comments in your post in the most polite way I can:

You asked me for my preference and synthetically I told you what I do and prefer. Since there are some experts, let’s rock and roll things a little bit …

A.
Corks: there are several types. What I mean for corks is a punched tree bark and one of certain technical specification (but let’s stay on a normal 38mm) that I have already indicated previously. Sure you can find cheap ones as well. If you make serious wines I want a serious cork in it (and I am talking real corks of course and for long ageing wines I will gladly take the risk of a cork over other closures. I want the wine to evolve on its own. I want to be surprised (and pleasantly) in tasting the same wine that can evolve differently sometimes depending on the vintage and location (yes location too); I don’t want copy cat – enough digression let’s stay technical.



What’s the problem with corks? You need to be able to select the right one. The vaporization (necessary process to clean them up) needs to be done in the right way otherwise you are going to face problems. A serious wine producer either uses more than one supplier and /or tests the corks for TCA etc.

Then there are technical corks, agglomerated corks etc. To me those have shown over time to be more risky. Vaporization is more complicated and also the gluing process but they cost far less than the above ones. There are some great examples though that are consistent in quality.

B.
Glass stoppers;

comments made are correct; and what I said was that they are not air tight unless you are lucky.

C.
“Silicon” stoppers and such: one of the replies states that are not made of silicon… partially true. All these stoppers pardon closures have been called silicon for a reason. While they are all made by “olde saurus blood” (if you don’t know what it is ask BP about it they may be interested in the discussion…) and they look very different in concept. Let’s stick with the most famous ones:




Nomacorc / Nucorc they use a co-extrusion of polyethylene,
Supremecorq uses thermoplastic elastomer injection molded
Integra uses Ethyl Vinyl Acetate injection molded

All of them use “olde saurus blood” in different forms... but all of them coated with silicon (duh if not I want to see you move the frigging thing same for technical corks by the way no silicon no party, particularly if the bottle is chilled the corkscrew is old and the waiter/waitress has a bad day or a mix of the above).

Like the technical corks, these are made for wines that are supposed to be drunk in 24 months or less. So if you are talking about totally naturally made wines, that is nonsense---ok they can be organic but not more than that. If you ask any of these producers as a buyer you can rest assured that all of them will guarantee their closures for 36months… after that it is your problem. And did you notice that all the tests performed and all technical brochures are made in a 24 month period? Guess why….

A pure cork (the serious 1 inch long stuff one piece and first choice thing) supplier will guarantee its closure for inherent defects for much longer (and they will make you pay for that, rest assured). The reason is that plastic stoppers (so to not upset people and not to call silicon stoppers or they will not sleep tonight) producers know exactly what they are making and targeting; which, by the way, is the majority of the market.

The problem with plastics is that all plastics is are sensitive to light, sun (ok bottles should stay in the dark but)… and they rapidly decay. Plus this one by its own characteristic is a plastic in that it needs to be squeezed into a hole and sealed (again maybe BP will be interested…). After a while the thing loses its own proprieties. Several solutions have been tried to keep it together (even with a frame inside and three different kinds of plastic) but so far the problem is that after 3 years the closure definitely crystallizes and doesn’t work properly. Plus the elasticity of the material is different. How many times do you find that it is basically impossible to put back in one of those corks once it’s been extracted? So if you are making wines that are supposed to last long time (and I personally like those) and you put them with “silicon” stoppers---well you can do it sure, you can you can even pee upwind if you want… but is not a smart decision.

D.
Screwcaps /Stelvin… well the work nicely put it down by the Aussies had proved wrong (Australian Wine Institute is a nice source of information for wineries that do exactly what the Australian Wine Institute wants (which is not exactly their best artisan producers.) They follow the money too like every other country in the world. Screwcaps can make your life easier if you run an industrial winery and your production is high volume. But despite claims of certain producers with no vines who have all of a sudden become biodynamic, making wines in plastic bottle to save the environment (… no comment) that is not really true. Ask Tesco, who sent back I believe 10 containers of wine in 2007, how well the double chamber works. The double chamber is needed to bottle the wine. The wine gets stable if you make it stable before bottling it and during the process. And if there is a reduction, no biggie…a decanter works. Or you can fix it with cupper … sure you can, anything is possible. Then what about taking a lame white wine and filtering thru a used cat litter and male sauvignon blanc…Seriously speaking. The big difference in this case is once again what I, anonymous, consider wine and what the other side considers wine. To me a wine that has been manipulated a lot in the wine making department (which includes the filtration and bottling) even if legally is called wine is not that anymore for me; for them it is. It is a choice of course and everyone can do as they please. The day I see that a winemaker bottles an unfiltered wine in a small facility with a simple screwcap system and 15 years after the wine is fine and grown up well maybe then I will be convinced… I underline maybe.




Enough “brain masturb…”

These few notes are based on over 20 years in this industry, on my personal experience and belief. I do not consider myself a scientist, but I was lucky enough to make wines (just 7 times though) and to try a lot of them while doing something I love that still allows me to remain broke (but I give a lot of money to a lot of people). I read scientific publications and make up my own mind after talking with friends; some of them are winemakers that have 40+ harvests under their belts.

Regarding the anonymous writing, well couple of things... Raelinn asked me for my private opinion and I gave permission to publish it as long it remained anonymous. I find that in this industry there is unfortunately too much ego and many do things just to promote themselves while appearing as the “white knight”. I am not a blogger. I am not a social networker. I do not seek the approval from any journalist, whichever palate, points, etc. may be. So technically speaking I am an unsocial asshole. I am not saying don’t do it. If I import wines and I want to express my opinion or promote my wines as long as it is well understood who am I that is fine. I personally do not find ethical that, while we can express our opinion we take advantage of that. Too many times there are people involved in this business that are both involved in the sale of their own wines and also write on the side and promote them pretending to be journalists or independent bloggers or a mix of that without stating clearly that they are also making a profit by promoting them. That gives me an itch. What I care about is just the wines and people who make them and the people who enjoy them; anything else can go under a screw cap.
______________________________

End of comments by my friend.

I hope that everyone will be respectful regarding the wishes of my friend to remain anonymous.

I hope that what this post might do is provide more of a platform for dialogue than for snarking. I'm interested in the information on the closures, as are many others given the number of questions I see out there.

I would LOVE to hear your opinions, see links to valid studies on the subject, etc. Otherwise, put a cork in it. :o) (really, I just couldn't resist. no aplogies.) heh heh.

Cheers!

Wine Ophelia
-Raelinn

oh yeah... photo credits... as always, I found em on the web. If it's yours and you don't want me to use it, I'll take it down. Thanks.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Put a cork in it!

I’ve been trying to find some good information out there on different types of wine closures. There has been a LOT of online chatter surrounding corks and screwcaps, etc. of late---lots of opinions flying about. I haven’t been able to dig up anything that didn’t seem to be distorted in some way by the producer of the closure itself---no truly well-done independent study. If you have one, I’d love to see it! So, in lieu of this, I started asking around. The information below is from a long-time wine pro who asked if she/he might remain anonymous. So here you have it:






Natural corks are the best but they need to be pure ones (made in one piece) and patiently selected. A good cork (sorry, a serious one) costs a lot of money (€1/1.30) and should be over 1 inch long (1 ½ is perfect).

For cheaper wines I allow the producers to use T4 as a safe solution. A T4 has a bottom and a top that are one piece and the middle is glued together. The problem is how they glue together the parts because the use of non-neutral glue or improperly washed cork can become a problem (TCA is more often from improperly washing the corks or wineries floors than not from unclean barrels). If there is a problem with a wine we swap the bottles but we also need the cork back. If we are talking about pure natural wines, cork is the choice for the simple reason that is impossible to have a natural wine stable for vintages younger than 2007 in 2010 (at least a cold stabilization and/or a filtration needs to be done – a silicone stopper would be too risky as the wine easily spoils in 3 years).

Silicon works for wines that you do not age and plan to drink in 2 years max. The reason? Silicon doesn’t have a so-called “memory”. Practically speaking, even when it does not crystallize externally, when you squeeze a silicon stopper in, it is going to shrink and shrink and shrink and then it becomes “loose” in the neck of the bottle. Some producers try to use them with me and will usually stop when I threaten them to send the wine back or I show up at their premise with an ax. In that case the wine oxidized (if was alive) or it doesn’t – if the wine has been already taxidermized (see below on screwcaps)

Glass can work but if the wine is meant for long ageing they need to put “this wine has become ‘inert’” on the label. (See below under screw cap.) Plus it is very difficult to do it right. Bottles are not perfectly equal in dimension in the neck and a difference of a micron can make all the difference. The cost of a closure like that and effectiveness is usually not worth it.

Screwcaps are air-tight. So if you put a living wine with a screw cap you will get the typical rotten egg flavor (as it is reduced by the lack of oxygen). In order to avoid this you need to “kill the wine” with sulfur dioxide, nitrogen during the process and usually this is the key… a practical pasteurization. Do not look at me like this… they have to. Particularly if you have a winery that works with more than 6 tons/ha they need to stop the malo (practically do a partial) to keep the wine together and the only way to do it is to kill any little cute bacteria inside … oh yeah and then they write on the brochure they have been growing grapes following a natural process… but they sent them to a concentration camp after and then if you do some more research you discover that they do not even own vines… better if I stop here
______________________________________________________

And that is the end of my friend's comments...

For your reading enjoyment, here is a google search of Wine Closures.

In my search for images, I found that a lot of people have spoken on this in the past and I would certainly love to link to your blog if you have a post on various types of wine closures! Leave your link in the comments. And by all means, I would certainly love to hear from winemakers on this and even collectors. What have your experiences been with the different closures?

I should have a nice post from another winemaker to put up very soon. Thanks for reading. I hope you'll join in the conversation!

Cheers!

---Wine Ophelia
photo credit: I have no idea. If you own it and want me to take it down, just tell me. :o) cheers!

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Wilamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Signature Cuvee


Long overdue post! I tasted this wine with a dear friend of mine and we just absolutely loved it. We didn't really feel much like talking about it or making notes, we just wanted to drink it, which is the best compliment I think I could pay a wine. I find that at least for me, the more I like a wine, the less I have to say. It is far easier for me to dissect a wine that is just okay or even downright bad.

I did manage to scratch down a few notes:

Lovely, subtle, old-world style pinot.
Transluscent garnet-red color with a gorgeous medium body and beautiful mouthfeel. I won't go so far as to say luscious, because it isn't that fat, but silky might work. Notes of violet, tobacco. Slightly herbaceous in a very good way. Nice tannins and vibrant acidity. I'd even say you could hold onto this one a little longer, but quite delicious right now. I'd be comfortable pairing it with mild to medium-savory foods.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Wine Ophelia Gets Naked! Naked Merlot that is...

Purchased at the Wine Cellar in Richmond for around $12. Live in Richmond? Go check em out and also follow them on Twitter HERE.
Tasting notes for the Live Twitter tasting #WAMerlot hosted by Drink Nectar.


Snoqualmie 2007 Naked Merlot Columbia Valley
This wine is visually quite lovely with a deep, almost opaque dark red-violet color. Pleasant aromas of dark forest berries rise to greet me. (ok, so it sounds cheesy... get over it. I like it.) Blueberries, black currant, a slight whiff of leather.

On the palate it is a bit green, youthful and acidic. Green in a way that I tend to like. The wine has medium body and nice, firm tannins but not overwhelming at all---nicely balanced. Vibrant acidity.
A touch of pencil lead.





The Naked Merlot seems like it would lay down nicely for a few more yers and mellow into a gentler, more subtle and complex wine. I can envision the tannins and greenness giving way to subtle leather and tobacco notes, showing off a more relaxed fruit profile and a little less acidity and tannin.





Much in the same way I imagine an exuberant teenager mellowing into an elegant adult or a frisky kitten into a mellow cat enjoying a puddle of sunshine.







This was on my first tasting. I kept this wine for 3 days, something I don't often do. Most of the time because with reds, I find they are just spent after day 2 and if I like them, well, there just isn't any left. Ok. My point being that on day 2, the tannins were totally relaxed and the wine was perfectly enjoyable. So this leads me to recommend decanting before you serve. Day 3 it was STILL GOOD. Which really surprised me. It was very mellowed out, showing off all its fruit in a very nice way (i.e. not fruit bomb)

I would definitely buy this one again and call it a good value for the price.

Enjoy!
Cheers! -- Wine Ophelia

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Tasting Notes: Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir

This Oregon pinot has a lovely transluscent dark, ruby-red color, belying its very light body. On the nose, not very giving and slightly earthy. On the palate, it has a lively acidity with pronounced cherry and tobacco on the front end and no discernible tannins on the back end. Quite soft but for the pique of acidity which I like. The finish... well... reminded me of this guy




and this little song. only you know...with a short tail. Get it...heh, heh. Short tail. I kill myself!

So Ima stick it in the fridge, stick it in the fridge, stick it.... oh you know.

In the meantime, I decided to pair it with my pizza of chicken, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, feta, herbs, and a light drizzle of some organic CA extra virgin olive oil and a very light shake of red pepper flakes. (and yes... it IS delicious!) The wine's forward fruit and bright acidity paired very nicely with my pizza and quite frankly sloshed down VERY easily and happily.

Ok. So the wine is now cave temp or so. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaand THERE it is! The zen of STRUCTURE! Wahooooooooooo! I love it when I'm right! Serve this one at cave temperature people. It makes all the difference in the world. (well at least for me) This wine went from soft, flabby and a little hot (alcohol-wise) with no finish to speak of to being just lovely. Now the nice characteristics it had on my first go remain... the lovely cherry and tobacco notes, but now it is not flabby and soft at all, but rather has good structure and the acidity is really well balanced with the fruit.



The nice folks at Willamette Valley Vineyards provided me with a sample. You can find it for around $20 retail.

Friday, March 5, 2010

Sauvignon Blanc Notes

Yesterday on Twitter the kung fu master of social media Rick Bakas held a live sauvignon blanc tasting that dominated Twitter for the evening. Last I saw there were over 350 participants and over 1000 tweets! Great job and huge congrats to Rick! I had the great pleasure to participate and taste some wonderful and interesting wines from CA, NZ and the Loire Valley. I compiled my tasting notes below. Enjoy!

Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Delaille 2008 imported by Kermit Lynch
Sample provided by Loire Valley Wine Bureau

Bring on the funk! Super pale straw yellow color. Faint, funky old world nose. A bit reserved, but I like that in a sauvignon blanc. A whiff of cat pee. (yep… you heard me right… cat pee. A classic sauvignon blanc aroma profile.) I like that too, in moderation. Light body. It also has some mild citrus aromas and flavors. Pleasant acidity. Don’t serve this one too cold or it won’t show you any love. Cave temperature should be about right in my opinion (low to mid 50s.) The finish is crisp and dry with a slight minerality. I really enjoy the subtlety of this wine.

St. Supéry Dollarhide 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Sample provided by St. Supéry

Extremely pale golden yellow color. Subtle aromas and flavors. Hints of lime and grass. Balanced acidity. Long, pleasant, clean, dry finish. Dry. Again don’t serve too cold. I really prefer this more subtle, elegant style of Sauvignon Blanc to the sledgehammer, over the top pineapple/guava nectar/cat box expressions.

Speaking of which…

St. Supéry Napa Valley 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
Sample provided by St. Supéry


Heeeeeeeeeeeeeere kitty kitty… heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere kitty! My husband walked in the door while I was tasting this one and the first thing out of his mouth was not, “hi (inappropriate nickname that I won’t tell you) how’s it going?’ Instead, he said, “why do I smell cat pee?” I just looked up over the rim of my stemware at him and giggled. “Sauvignon Blanc!” I said. He just shook his head. This wine is VERY aromatic with an explosion of tropical fruit and kitty pee. Loads and loads and loads of pineapple, guava, papaya and dare I say it? Juicyfruit chewing gum. A bit heavier in the mouth than I’m accustomed to in a Sauvignon Blanc. VERY long tropical fruit finish.


If you prefer an over the top Sauvignon Blanc, this baby’s for you! However, this is not my personal style preference. I much preferred the reserved, elegant Dollarhide.






Sherwood Estate 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ
Purchased a glass for $7 at Caffe Driade in Chapel Hill, NC

So I was waiting and waiting and waiting for a distributor appointment yesterday which eventually got rescheduled. YAY! That meant I could start my sauvignon blanc tasting early! So I celebrated by grabbing a glass of sauvie b at the café where I had been waiting. They only had one. So I said to myself, “Not what I would normally drink, but, hey... it's here and so am I.” Just being practical. Heh. This one has classic pale golden yellow color. Austere on the nose with slightly grassy notes. In contrast to the aromas, it is quite flavorful with tropical fruits but not over the top at all. Light body. Nice, crisp acidity, not on the attack like some NZ’s I’ve tasted. Very pleasant, long finish. Dry. I genuinely enjoyed it and didn’t expect to. NICE!

Last but certainly not least:

Danielle de l’Année 2007 Val de LoireSample provided by Loire Valley Wine Bureau

This on just totally knocked my socks off. It is quite different from any Sauvignon Blanc I’ve tasted (and I’ve had a few.) Much richer golden yellow color than I would expect from SB. And WHOA! Tropical fruit Crème Soda on the nose! Also a slight hint of honey. What a total freakshow! This wine has a lush mouthfeel and medium body. Some yellow apple flavor. I’m gonna go ahead and guess it’s been on the lees to develop this creamy texture and wild aromas. VERY aromatic but balanced with a quite lively acidity and minerality. The finish is long and pleasant and dry, but maintains the crème soda and tropical fruit and minerality to the very end. This one surprised me so much that I liked it. I probably would not go for this if you described it to me in advance as I definitely prefer (like I said) a more subtle, elegant style to sauvignon blanc, but was just too weird not to like. That might say something about me, though I’m not sure what.

I hope you enjoyed reading the notes. Please consider joining the wine community on Twitter for some of the upcoming live tasting events. Follow @RickBakas and @NectarWine on Twitter for more details.

Cheers!

Wine Ophelia
- Raelinn

PS - I have no idea whom to credit for the photos but they aren't mine. Found them in a search. If it's yours and you don't want me to use it, I'll take it down, I promise.